All levels of ability
This chain draw-string purse was inspired by Viking history of York, England. It’s a twist on leather pouches carried during the Viking era. Our warrior conquest will start with learning to make your own patterns and designs for the front and back panels using photopolymer plates. Then you will learn to make all-in-one “castle” knuckles and rivet a pin to secure it.
Next, you will cut and punch soft supple sheepskin leather and attach it to form the clever purse bag. In the final step, a chain is threaded through the leather to make a functional purse.
Materials Needed:
960 Sterling (25 g Art Clay or PMC3 and 25 g PMC Sterling 925), 2mm small link chain - should be flexible, smooth, rounded links, used for the draw string as not to abuse the leather, another matching chain for the necklace -- size optional, 2 head pins, 2 small gems or pearls, 4 - 5 mm, 14 ga straight junk wire, 16 ga sterling, 20 ga sterling, 6” square thin sheep skin leather, 2 - 3 mm leather punch, Striking hammer, Bench block or hard surface, Tracing paper, UV light, Set of pliers, round nose, chain link or flat nose, wire cutters, 3M polishing papers, Metal back polymer plate, Overhead projector sheets, Clear report cover, Scotch guard for swede, Clear tape, Masking tape, Deodorant contain with a nice long curve, Sharpie® Black Pen, A compass (optional), Basic tool kit, Eve® Rubber polishing wheels and knife edge for Silver, blue (medium), pink (fine) for rotary tool, 3M Radial Bristle Brushes 400 grit to fine, Kiln.
Jorvik Viking Purse Tutorial by Holly Gage
Lessons are in a PDF format are for students who need no teacher guidance with the lesson. You do, however, have an option to purchase a 1 hour question and answer session by appointment. To purchase a private session in addition to the self guided lesson, select the "A Private Session with Holly Gage." separately. You can select how many sessions you would like. Sessions are live on the Go to Meeting platform. This option is for seeking answers to questions and have an interest in seeing Holly Gage perform select demonstrations.
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Each tutorial suggests what Metal Clay to use, but you can use the clay you choose with these guidelines in mind since clay preference is an individual choice.
I tend to use Metal Clay with a good melting surface, which means adding water to eliminate imperfections on the greenware surface makes an excellent "self slip" that you can move around with a brush or healing tool to smooth the surface. Many of the lessons use this technique.
Since PMC Sterling is discontinued, the handmade 960 (1/2 PMC Sterling and 1/2 Art Clay Silver) you see in some lessons can be replaced with another strong clay with good carving properties — 950, 960, Sterling Clays, and Base Metal Clays that carve smoothly without chipping.